File about the Kukri shown, created right after I bought them.

 

Kukri Epoxy Handle Method

 

Wednesday, 27 Dec, 2006 Moisture Note:  Re-made the sheath on these Kukris during the last year, since this page was first created.  Noted that there were raised, softened areas erupting from under the strap that held the handle on the sheath.  Surmised could only be from moisture, as leather can catch moisture.  (That is why most knives are sold with cardboard around them, and not in the sheath, if is is made of leather.) 

 

Tested the knife by immersing it in water, for a few hours.  Noted some softening on the surface.  Allowed me to re-shape easier, after handles had been curing for so long.   Might cause a problem of hand or other moisture, in the field.  For now, I tape the epoxy handles with a good quality electricians tape, and am going from there. 

 

Likely the entire method will be discontinued by me, and replacement with bolted-on wooden handles will result.  For now, handles left taped.  Paul.

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Saturday, February 26, 2005.


Epoxy coated, to a built up state, three kukris. The two officers kukris and the one smaller of the large-scale kukris was done.


Came by revelation. Need to see if they last, the handles, I mean. Paul.


The two-part black epoxy, referenced elsewhere, with pictures, is the same as used on the large 18-inch Kukris.


Probably need to work up a web page showing all this.


Note that the whole knife feels better with the larger handle, and that the whole handle, to include the first part of the blade, and the end of the handle, were covered. Makes a weather-tight seal.


Even though the handles don’t look as “cool” as they did, and appear rough, that tough , rough texture is very good and pleasant on the hand. The coating of epoxy, like that of the tables they use in labs, should shock-absorb. The original handles are UNDER the epoxy. If it should fail, they will still be there.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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What I used to create the handles.

After initial coating, and shaping, more epoxy was added, as needed. Removal of excess was done by rasping and rough sanding. The super rough 36 grit paper they first use to sand natural wood floors was used. Texture is left rough.

Seems to get much harder with age. On first application, in the first hour or so, you can still work it, not unlike clay.

 

 

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Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue and Camouflage Tape

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kukri_Epoxy_Handle_Method.pdf

Kukri_Epoxy _Handle_Method.wpd

 

Note I no longer do this, but have replaced handles with larger wooden varieties.  Still waiting to see how the epoxy will stand up in the field.

 

Wednesday, 27 Dec, 2006 Moisture Note:  Re-made the sheath on these Kukris during the last year, since this page was first created.  Noted that there were raised, softened areas erupting from under the strap that held the handle on the sheath.  Surmised could only be from moisture, as leather can catch moisture.  (That is why most knives are sold with cardboard around them, and not in the sheath, if is is made of leather.) 

 

Tested the knife by immersing it in water, for a few hours.  Noted some softening on the surface.  Allowed me to re-shape easier, after handles had been curing for so long.   Might cause a problem of hand or other moisture, in the field.  For now, I tape the epoxy handles with a good quality electricians tape, and am going from there. 

 

Likely the entire method will be discontinued by me, and replacement with bolted-on wooden handles will result.  For now, handles left taped.  Paul.

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